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I was delighted to discover that the South Indian blend podi – a rubble of intensely spicy, crudely milled spices, which you stir into a little oil and use as a accompaniment for dosa or idli – is also known as “gunpowder” spice mix. This is accurate if you were using my grandmother’s homemade dried chilies, but it would be generous to say that I’m far less daring with chilli, so here I suggest chilli flakes instead. It’s an remarkably tasty marinade for these paneer and potato skewers.

Gunpowder Paneer and Potato Skewers with Lime-Mint Dressing

Gather six to eight skewers made of metal or wood (if made of wood, let them sit in water for 10 minutes first).

Prep a quick 10 minutes
Cook half an hour
Serves a couple

Four hundred grams firm potatoes, chopped into 1.5-inch chunks
8 ounces paneer, cubed into two-centimeter cubes
One tsp coriander seeds
Half a tsp fennel seeds
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
1 tsp black peppercorns
One tsp chilli flakes
One and a half tsp flaky sea salt, with more for serving
2 garlic cloves, prepared and minced
2½cm piece fresh ginger, prepared and minced
about 3 tablespoons flavorless oil
One red onion, peeled and cut into eight wedges, then cut in half horizontally

For the dressing
Zest and juice from one lime, finely grated
10g fresh mint leaves, minced
Half a tsp flaky sea salt
One hundred grams natural yoghurt

Cook the potatoes for nine minutes, then remove the water and allow to air dry for a minute. Meanwhile, put the paneer cubes in a bowl of boiling water for five minutes, then remove water and dry gently.

Pour the coriander, fennel and cumin seeds into a pestle and mortar or blender, add the seasonings, then mash or process to a rough rubble.

Transfer to a large mixing bowl with the grated garlic and ginger, add the oil, then gently stir in the paneer cubes, boiled potatoes, and onion wedges to coat. Thread the components on to barbecue sticks, then place on a tray and keep ready – if you like, you can at this stage wrap and chill the skewers.

Whisk all the sauce elements in a mixing bowl. Preheat the broiler to its maximum heat, then bake the sticks for 5–7 minutes on each side, until the paneer is browned and the potatoes are starting to char. (This may take a different amount of time depending on the heat of your broiler, so keep an eye on them, especially when cooking the first side.)

Offer the grilled sticks immediately, scattered with a little more salt and the sauce on the side for serving.